By Neil Shea
"Rooftop" was the highest
jump in Quincy's Granite Rail Quarry, an overhanging
platform of dark granite, 50 or 60 feet above the surface
of a cold, water-filled abyss. A friend of mine who used to
leap from Rooftop as a kid said jumping was never easy. It
was something you had to force yourself into each time—and
it always hurt. Even when you did it right, he said, arms
crossed over your chest, feet pointed down, you hurt for a
half-hour after.
Pain was part of the experience. And the quarry, with its
steep ledges and wild appeal, set on the faraway border of
the city, attracted throngs of local kids everyday during
the summer for more than 30 years. They brought six-packs
of beer and smoked pot, littered the place with graffiti,
and piled up socks and shoes in the jittery ritual of stripping
before taking a plunge. But Granite Rail was a schizophrenic
hole; and in those three decades it shifted back and forth
from giant, unregulated playground to glimmering graveyard.
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Natural
Arena
For
more than 30 years Granite Rail quarry was a swimming
hole and party spot. It was also a dumping ground for
bodies. Click
to enlarge |
In mid-September, 1997, Granite Rail was an arena. Slick
rock walls pushed up out of dark water. Tall outcrops leaned
in overhead, casting cool shadows. Rock climbers wandered
through the buzz of their annual festival onshore, winning
contests, eating hotdogs, yelling, laughing. I floated mid-pond
lazily in a battered rowboat, a world away, ready to haul
out anyone who tumbled in.
I was working as a park ranger for the Metropolitan District
Commission, the MDC. The rusty state bureaucracy manages the
old quarry as part of a large suburban park system. Leaning
over the edge of the rowboat, I watched hundreds of milky,
freshwater jellyfish flutter and pump in a cloud just below
the surface. The quarter-sized jellies, a line of ghosts,
rose slowly through the murk to feed in sunlit patches.
Two months later police divers swam down into a tomb, hunting
for a body in the still blackness at quarry-bottom. They found
two, hundreds of feet below, resting on ledges. The water
was so cold at that depth that ice crystals clouded their
diving masks and rattled in their respirators. After days
of diving, the policemen pulled up the well-preserved corpse
of an Irish exchange student, ending one family's long ordeal.
He'd been missing for three years.
A short, stern truck driver from South Boston named Charlie
Hammond stood at the edge of the quarry holding his wife and
watching police load the body into a black bag. They waited
for the other corpse to surface and hoped it would be their
oldest daughter, Karen, who disappeared two years earlier.
They suspected she had been kidnapped and murdered, and the
little flecks of evidence they'd found in their terrible search
for her led to Granite Rail.
It was a perfect place to dump bodies.
The quarry has been a Quincy landmark since
the early 19th century, when men searching for sturdy stone
to build the Bunker Hill Monument discovered great outcrops
of rock on the city's edge. Early quarrymen carved thousands
of tons of hard, fine-grained granite from the earth and gave
the Quincy a nickname: the Granite City. But demand eventually
ran out, and the pit was deactivated in 1942. With no one
to pump out the huge hole, it filled with 160 million gallons
of water. It became an enticing play space, full of wildlife,
rusting quarry equipment, and bleak, rocky headwalls, tucked
away from neighbors. Granite Rail was beautiful a retreat
for reckless teens.
Kids slipped down to the rocks through the ribs of an old
fence and wandered a trail to the water. Each generation's
toughest and dumbest launched themselves like screaming cannonballs
from the cliffs. Rock-climbers and hikers also roamed the
place on tiny suburban adventures.
Wildness
is seductive in big places like this. Everyone who makes
it to the lip of a deep hole wonders what it would be
like to fall.
Or jump. |
Natural succession is usually benign—lakes fill with
sediment and become swamps, swamps change to grasslands, grasslands
fade into forests. But Granite Rail, carved up by men and
then abandoned, blurred into unregulated ruin, like old warehouses,
junkyards, mines and graveyards.
Wildness is seductive in big places like this, right near
cities that have banished natural risks. The thrill of gravity
and fear pull you to the edge, if you can stand it. You kick
in a few pebbles or spit or yell, waiting for an echo, the
plunk of impact, some sensual measure of scale. Everyone who
makes it to the lip of a deep hole wonders what it would be
like to fall. Or jump.
But Granite Rail was dangerous. Logs hovered below the surface
at odd depths, like submarines. Old machines squatted on shallow
ledges, out of sight. In some places, rotten rock disintegrated
underfoot. One jumper disappeared in a neighboring quarry
after he smashed into the water like a rag doll and sank.
Several kids fell in and drowned. A rockslide crushed two
more. Other bodies got rolled in, along with stolen cars and
heaps of junk.
The menace of the place irritated lawmakers and frustrated
law enforcers; a recurring rash on Quincy's skin. City officials
lobbed telephone poles into the quarry to discourage jumpers.
The poles sank. The MDC bought the quarry in 1985 and turned
it into a park, but rarely monitored it. No one knew how to
define the place. So after a while, no one tried.
Charlie Hammond called it "Devil pit".
On a February evening in 2001, screaming ambulances rolled
by outside his South Boston apartment, pushing noise through
the walls. Charlie was 49, lived with his wife, also named
Karen, and drove a big rig delivering fish. He didn't make
much money, and he'd lost a lot of work time looking for his
daughter in the six years since she vanished. He and his wife
were also raising Karen's two adolescent daughters.
He stayed pretty calm talking about Karen; it was the boxed-up
calm of sadness and fatigue. He shuffled through the folders
where he'd filed every morsel from his searches, his meetings
with police, the dead-end details of old hope. If he couldn't
remember something, he yelled back to his wife, and she answered
quietly.
Karen was blonde, petite and dreamed of being a hairdresser.
She disappeared from a Store 24 parking lot in South Boston
a few days after New Year's, 1995. Her boyfriend, father of
one of her girls, let her out at the store and left to run
an errand. He said he'd come back for her. No one knows what
came next. When her boyfriend returned, Karen was gone.
Policemen and reporters covering the case thought Karen was
working as a prostitute and disappeared in some grisly cloud,
the way prostitutes occasionally do. Charlie said Karen was
no angel, but he called himself a loving father. He wouldn't
even consider the prostitute bit. "My impression is that
she went with someone she knew," Charlie said, in a heavy
Boston accent, his voice spiraling downward. "There's
an awful lot of hearsay. We had indications maybe her boyfriend
had a part in it. Another we heard was her body was cut up
and disposed of."
| Police
found a woman's body, bound and weighted down with cinder
blocks. |
Charlie looked in sewers, abandoned cars, warehouses, and
all the other hard places he could think of. Clues came in
whispers. Most leads turned into thickets of confusion. But
some of them glistened just enough to give struggling parents
hope of at least finding a body. While checking posters he
had taped up describing Karen, Charlie found a note scrawled
on the tattered paper: "Body at q
." Rain had
smudged the rest of the words.
From this stained clue, the flow of logic was simple—Granite
Rail had long been a body dump. Police had found a woman's
body there underwater, bound and weighted down with cinder
blocks, the same year Karen disappeared. The woman, named
Sonia Leal, had been a prostitute and some of her customers
had killed her after arguing about money. The poster note,
the quarry's notoriety, and other small tips from the police
brought the Hammonds to Granite Rail. On the shore, that autumn
day in 1997, Charlie had watched police recover the Irish
kid's body and he had waited for answers to rise out of the
dark water. But they never did.
It took years of terrible lessons before
the authorities found a way to seal Granite Rail. But finally
in the late 1990s, after a few more deaths and expensive search
operations pounded lawmakers and bureaucrats, they pushed
to sanitize the place. Lurching out of years of inertia, they
declared Granite Rail too dangerous for society. They also
hurried because the latest tragedies coincided with Boston's
multibillion-dollar Central Artery/Tunnel Project, called
the Big Dig, as it shifted into high gear.
An exercise in engineering superlatives, the Big Dig is the
biggest, most complicated, messiest, most irritating highway
project in the nation. But it has promise. It will remove
several thousand dirty commuter cars from public view by sinking
the expressway that runs into Boston. At the height of construction,
more than a hundred cranes ate into the earth every day. The
smell of dirt and diesel fuel and rubber infused the work
site. The Big Dig's shuddering gravity was hard to escape.
When officials decided to fill the quarry, they killed two
public works problems at once. The quarry would be filled
and Big Dig engineers found a destination for the millions
of cubic feet of clay, glacial till and muck that came out
of its tunnels daily. The state government—already over-budget
in Dig expenses—would save millions of dollars from
the arrangement. The city of Quincy would also reap several
million more for handling the dirt.
On a bright January morning in 2001, two men from the Big
Dig drove out from Boston to show off the Granite Rail filling
project. It had been going for a month and Dig officials had
temporarily taken over the quarry from the state. The men
pulled up in a dirty pick-up by a five-foot granite block
that bore a memorial to the murdered prostitute: Sonia Leal,
1977-1994. I hopped in.
Chris Barnett, Manager of Materials Disposal for the Big Dig,
a tall, friendly engineer in a hard hat and tie, was ready
with numbers. Eight hundred twenty-five thousand tons, or
about 400,000 cubic yards of Big Dig fill, would soon seal
the quarry, he said. Men hustled around the clock to fill
the pit. Shift one hauled the dirt from the Big Dig site,
20 minutes away on the expressway, and stockpiled it overnight
at an old landfill three minutes from the quarry. Shift two
spent its days pushing dirt into the hole.
 |
Mud
Slide
The quarry in December 2000 at the start of the filling
project.
Click to enlarge |
The pile would eventually stack up as tall as the Mayan Pyramid
of the Sun at Teotihuacan: 250 feet tall and about two acres
at its base. Also like the Pyramid, this pile would entomb
a stash of human artifacts.
We reached the action, my first visit to the quarry in years.
Filthy trucks, each hauling about 20 tons of fill, grumbled
up to a shallow trough by the edge of the quarry and tipped
their loads in. A front-end loader nudged the dirt further,
and then a giant yellow excavator reached into the trough
and scooped the moist dirt into the void, one tiny black bucket-full
at a time.
A lumpy pile had consolidated beneath the dumping trough.
On the far northern wall, rafts of debris clung like smashed
houses to ledges in the granite. When I worked as a ranger,
I had rarely visited the quarry during winter. It looked empty
and cold. I'd had no idea what was beneath me that day I watched
jellyfish, just before bodies began surfacing. Now the veiled
mystery of deep water was gone, lost to the unflinching bulk
of big engineering, heavy equipment, fences and 24-hour supervision.
The hole stared.
"When we drained the quarry, there was a huge amount
of debris at the bottom," Barnett said. It was a perilous,
fifty-foot deep mess, choked with logs, those phone poles,
bikes, oilcans, and cars—at least a dozen cars remained
stuck in the spiny pile. The state police couldn't remove
them. "The oldest car was probably vintage 1930s, complete
with wooden running boards," Barnett remembered.
The machines groaned and beeped in the cold, throttling up
and down as if they were racing. I asked Barnett how much
earth it would take to fill Granite Rail. He knew it wouldn't
take much longer. By day's end, about 380,000 tons would have
gone into the pit—a huge load considering that the filling
had begun just a month earlier. "We actually have a pool,"
he told me. "I'm betting 740,000 tons" he said.
Trucks bellowed by in a rush of diesel and dust. The excavator
swung back and forth, dipping into the trough and dumping
right onto the area where, in late 1997, divers found a small,
naked body crouched in fetal position on a ledge, nearly 200
feet down. To Barnett and many others, there was something
pleasant about filling the quarry. It was a good public deed,
full of something boyish that comes with digging and filling
holes. It was easy and satisfying work. Especially compared
to slow crawl of the Big Dig.
It's hard to say the same about deep water
diving—there's nothing simple or alluring about
swimming into darkness to grope for bodies. In 1997 divers
reached the Irish student. But they lost the other body, the
one Charlie was waiting for.
Police divers Terry Cunningham and Bob Yeagle dove into Granite
Rail 50 times between 1997 and 1998. They were officers from
the Wellesley, Mass., police department, dive buddies and
members of a special public safety dive team. They'd gotten
most of their deep diving experience worming through underwater
caves together in Florida and exploring shipwrecks, like the
Andrea Doria. State police investigators, following a tip
from one of Sonia Leal's killer, had asked the friends to
search Granite Rail for a body on a cold, late-November day.
They found nothing during their first dive, around 10 a.m.
Layers of sediment suspended in the frigid water made it hard
to see. Looming debris—those cars and phone poles—along
with loose granite slabs snagged hoses and lines. Even their
most powerful lamps reached only six feet through the gloom.
| The
body loomed suddenly into view on a small lip of rock,
face down, hands pressed under the chest. |
"It's probably one of the worst places I've dove,"
said Cunningham, now chief of Wellesley's force. "The
problem was, if you got tangled in something, you'd feel like
you were swimming, but then you'd say, 'wait a minute, I don't
think I'm moving'." It was disorienting as a space walk.
But astronauts don't do their work drunk: the breathing gas
mixture of helium, nitrogen and oxygen, plus the pressure,
slowed the divers' reaction time and numbed their minds. "At
that depth, there's a narcotic effect. So at 180 feet, that's
like having six martinis," Cunningham said.
Granite Rail bludgeoned the divers with cold, darkness, and
pressure, forcing the men into cycles of diving, decompression
and departure. They could search briefly during each dive,
swimming up after 20 minutes to hover at several different
levels for 45 more, waiting for nitrogen levels in their bodies
to drop. Surfacing without this ritual could cause the "bends",
a painful and potentially deadly build up of nitrogen in the
bloodstream.
Snow was falling when the men dropped into the water again
that first day, late in the afternoon. Cunningham and Yeagle
were 18 minutes into their dive when they found the body in
180 feet of water. It loomed suddenly into view—two
feet away on a small lip of rock, face down, hands pressed
under the chest. Cunningham thought it might be tied to something.
The body was well preserved by the near-freezing water and
depth, but neither man could tell whether it was male or female.
Yeagle began to unwind a marking spool so they could find
the corpse later, when they returned with a special body bag.
We're almost done, Cunningham thought as he started for the
surface. But on the way up, he got into trouble. A piece of
his regulating gear malfunctioned and his dry suit began to
over-inflate, becoming a deadly balloon dragging him to the
surface. He and Yeagle lost each other in the blackness. Yeagle
shot to the surface, skipping decompression, and yelled to
support crews that Cunningham was missing. Get an ambulance,
he shouted, blood oozing from burst vessels in his nose. Then
he swam back to decompression depth, to wait, praying his
friend was still alive.
Far below, Cunningham had managed to stop the over-inflation,
slow his ascent and slip back to decompression depth. He knew
Yeagle and those above would be worried. So he tethered a
float bag to his belt with cord and sent it up, hoping it
would let surface crews know he was OK. The bag popped up
in the waning light, giving his exact position, but someone
above misunderstood and started hauling Cunningham up like
a hooked fish. He grabbed his dive knife, cut the line, and
continued decompression until he was nearly out of air. Then
he surfaced, blowing his sinuses. He was 15 minutes overdue.
Both men crawled up into boats stunned, frightened, relieved.
Sometime during the ordeal the marker leading down to the
body came undone. Divers never found their way back.
Soon after, investigators called off the search
for the winter, citing the hazardous conditions. The district
attorney's office decided to partially drain Granite Rail.
After a couple dozen dives in 1998, the search was halted
again and draining resumed. A last look in 1999, this time
by cadaver sniffing dogs lowered onto the quarry's debris
pile, failed to find the body.
Charlie was convinced the body Yeagle and Cunningham had seen
was Karen's. His belief boiled into a stubborn crusade. Charlie
pushed to keep the search moving through the rest of 1997
and into 2000, but it was like wading through molasses. He
met with the governor, the DA and flocks of reporters. He
said he'd turn the press against state officials. He was even
accused of threatening to toss a construction worker into
the pit. And he was caught sneaking into the quarry through
a hole in the barbed wire fence, the same way kids used to
get in.
"If
you hear anything falling, get in close to the rock."
Barnett said. "There's always stuff coming off the
walls."
|
Granite Rail was almost completelydrained by November 2000.
The state, the Big Dig and the city of Quincy, whose contractors
who would heave the dirt into the hole, had signed agreements
and pushed millions of dollars around. Big equipment crept
up to the pit like citrus-colored ants.
Charlie sought an injunction in December to stop the filling.
He was ready to put up his retirement money, $30,000, to hire
a private contractor for a week's search of the wreckage at
the quarry's bottom. State lawyers argued that the place was
too dangerous to stay open. They said there was no proof Karen
was in the quarry and they warned that a marvelous opportunity
would pass by if Big Dig engineers had to look elsewhere for
a fill site. The judge denied Charlie's injunction.
"I asked for a stinkin' seven days to recover a body.
I had the crane, I had the basket. They ganged up on us in
the courtroom." Charlie shoveled the bitter words out
of his mouth. "As soon as we hit the courtroom they switched
over to 24/7, and it looks to me like they moved the dumpin'
right over to where the body was supposed to be. They tied
my hands."
Places like Granite Rail all follow a succession-like pattern.
They bump along through growth and utility, but are always
abandoned and return to chaos. They fester on the edges of
civilization until tragedies roll into them. Then civilization
brings in bulldozers.
Two months later, in February, I trudged
down an earthen ramp into the quarry with Chris Barnett, the
engineer. We slopped around briefly near where I watched jellyfish
years ago. Then we wandered over to Rooftop. "If you
hear anything falling, get in close to the rock." Barnett
demonstrated, shouldering into the overhanging wall of grimy,
gray granite. Dark mud sucked at his boots and the massive
ledge above his head blocked out sunlight. "There's always
stuff coming off the walls."
It was cold in Rooftop's shadow, 12 feet below the old waterline.
Somewhere directly beneath our feet divers saw what might
have been Karen Hammond's body. The stream of dump trucks
had slowed to a trickle. Bulldozers had begun crawling down
into the quarry, leveling out the enormous heap.
A new muddy pile stretched unevenly across the quarry like
a rumpled blanket. Oyster shells from Boston Harbor and old
bricks poked up through the muck, new ornaments of succession.
Splinters of wood still clung to the rock. Jagged metal littered
the place like broken teeth. But the quarry had been tamed.
Barnett estimated the fill job was two-thirds done. Trucks
would bring 200,000 more tons of material. Granite Rail would
be full by spring, he said.
MDC spokesmen said the agency was planning a Granite Rail
revival and that plans would soon be presented to the public.
With a makeover, the gentle hump connecting Granite Rails
and an adjacent quarry would loll out like a big green tongue.
There would be room for polished picnic grounds and the big
cliffs would stay open for rock climbers. Barnett had heard
the plans could include a memorial for Karen Hammond.
 |
Metamorphosis
A gallery of the quarry's transformation. Click
here |
By October 2002, Granite Rail had been fully stuffed for
nearly a year. Rock climbers had returned, gathering in the
evening after work, and on weekends. They scrambled up once
inaccessible areas and pioneered new routes up the granite
faces. But the MDC had lost momentum, focus or money, and
none of the rumored renaissance projects had begun. No tables,
memorials or fences marked the site as stand-ins for supervision.
The quarry still squatted dangerously on the city's rim, each
of the old jumping spots plunging down to a pile of packed
dirt. The quarry was bandaged, but not sterilized.
For those who have lost loved ones in Granite Rail, or for
people like Charlie Hammond who see the place as a symbol
of death and buried questions, the casual return to disorder
is disturbing. Charlie wanted a memorial. He thought he might
find solace in one, a kind of closure. A public offering might
be better than finding a body or gruesome story.
If his daughter is in the quarry, the filling project has
at least lent her some dignity: she was buried like a princess.
Relatives and government men conducted intricate ceremonies
at the site, and 25,000 lumbering trucks have bowed and filled
her grave. The quarry's lore also endures, and as visitors
stand atop the pyramid of dirt and look up at the fading graffiti-epitaphs,
they will always wonder what's buried in Granite Rail.
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Neil Shea is a regular contributor. He
is a staff writer at The Providence Journal and he has written
for Harvard Magazine, The Christian Science Monitor and other
newspapers.
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