By
Matthew Smolak
The rivalry
between lager yeast (Saccharomyces uvarum) and ale
yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) is hardly known
but exists nonetheless. It is deeply felt and very poignant,
full of envy and so many of the other qualities that make
for great comedic and tragic stories.
The rivalry developed out of the very distinction between
lager yeast and ale yeast, wherein ale yeast, a top-fermenting
yeast, resides in the top portion of beer wort where it lives
out its life converting sugars to alcohol. Lager yeast, a
bottom-fermenting yeast, lives and works at the bottom of
beer wort.
Although the rivalry is founded on an intrinsic difference
in their natures, it is perpetuated on petty issues. In essence,
it comes down to ale yeast’s condescension towards lager
yeast and lager yeast’s reciprocal envy.
| The
abundance of lacklustre lagers in North America has very
little to do with the yeast but reinforces the image of
lager yeasts as humdrum. |
Lager yeast suffers from low self-esteem and an inferiority
complex, which ale yeast has been all too willing to reinforce.
Since lager yeast is bottom fermenting, there is a misconception
of lager yeast as a “bottom-feeder” equivalent
to the lowest of the sea creatures on the bottom of the ocean
– unsophisticated in development and inhibited in capabilities.
Meanwhile, it was suggested that ale yeast had climbed to
the top of the evolutionary ladder for yeast.
In reality, there is no foundation for such a distinction
between the two. Still, ale yeast entices lager yeast by exclaiming
about the view from the top of the fermenter, deriding the
limited view lager yeast has at the bottom.
In turn, lager yeast has lamented the light coloured beers
that it ferments compared to the various shades of copper,
amber, brown and deep black available to ale yeast. Lager
yeast generally feeds upon the varying degrees of gold and
copper lagers. On a rare occasion it may get to dine on a
dark lager, but otherwise it has envied the great variety
of grains and malt that ale yeast eats.
Worst of all is the prevalence of bland beers brewed by the
majority of North American breweries that lager yeasts are
called into duty to convert. The abundance of lacklustre lagers
in North America has very little to do with the yeast but
reinforces the image of lager yeasts, and lagers, as humdrum
and ale yeasts, and their respective ales, as exotic and sophisticated.
Interestingly, this rivalry, founded ages ago on misconceptions,
has recently abated as lager yeast finally begins to take
pride in itself. In mainstream beers, lager yeast’s
hearty character must salvage respectable beer out of otherwise
mediocre ingredients. At the same time, a re-emerging interest
in high-quality lagers has invigorated lager yeast’s
ego. Furthermore, lager yeast performs in wort that is stored
at temperatures of 0-15 degrees Celsius while ale yeast works
in the temperate 14-24 Celsius range. In fact, it may be that
we are on the verge of a reversal in the roles of this rivalry
as lager yeast now flaunts its vigorous nature and derides
ale yeast as a lazy, loafing sort of Saccharomyces.
And so, the misconceptions go on and it appears that the sibling
rivalry between these two shall never finish fermenting. But
as with all great rivalries, good things will come to those
who sit on the sidelines, and we await with eager tastebuds
the products of this bitter-sweet contest.
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Matthew Smolak is a musician,
homebrew master and politician living in Edmonton, Alberta.
He is a regular contributor to Inversion. Listen to Matt
live via Webcast on Sundays between 9 and 10 a.m. MST as
he preaches to the savage mind and spins eclectic mixes.
www.cjsr.com
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